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Surfing is such an amazing concept. You're taking on Nature with a little stick and saying 'I'm gonna ride you!' And a lot of times Nature says 'No you're not!' and crashes you to the bottom.
I kicked the door open and I'm gonna hold my leg in there. I'm keeping the door open for all these amazing female singer-songwriters that are coming out.
It's an amazing luxury to say I'm 31 years old and I'm gonna take a year off. That's pretty amazing.
I stopped dieting on plain, boring, unsatisfying food and started eating rich, delicious meals full of flavor and, yes... fat. I got skinny on fat and realized I would never have to diet again.
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